Day 9: A Historic Village, A Fishy Market, and a Mask Related Mission

Today we continued our journey through the Japanese Alps, winding through valleys framed by snow-dusted mountains and rivers that sparkled in the morning light. As we climbed higher, the roads offered ever more breathtaking views—steep forested slopes, terraced fields still holding the last traces of winter, and isolated homes that seemed frozen in time.

Our destination was the UNESCO World Heritage village of Shirakawa-go, a remarkable place that remained largely cut off from the rest of Japan until the 1960s, when road access was finally developed. Nestled deep in the mountains of Gifu Prefecture, the village is known for its traditional gasshō-zukuri farmhouses—distinctive buildings with steep, thatched roofs designed to withstand the heavy snowfall of the region. “Gasshō-zukuri” translates to “constructed like hands in prayer,” referring to the sharp angle of the roof, resembling hands pressed together.

Walking through the village feels like stepping back in time. With the surrounding snow still lingering on rooftops and roadsides, the contrast between beauty and hardship becomes clear. These homes weren’t just picturesque—they were built to survive in a harsh, isolated climate. What’s even more impressive is the effort to preserve this heritage: modern infrastructure such as power lines are buried underground to preserve the visual authenticity of the area, enhancing the timeless feel.

We took a short hike up a nearby hill, and from the viewpoint, we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the entire village—its clustered rooftops, the river winding through its heart, and mountains rising behind it. It was one of those rare sights that truly leaves you silent for a moment.

From Shirakawa-go, we travelled on to Kanazawa, a city that flourished during the Edo period as a center of culture, trade, and craftsmanship. Our first stop here was Omicho Market, a bustling local hub that has been operating since the 18th century. Known as "Kanazawa’s Kitchen," the market is a sensory overload in the best way—rows upon rows of seafood stalls displaying crab, tuna, squid, and sea urchin, alongside vibrant produce and pickled delicacies. Restaurants were tucked between the stalls, drawing crowds eager for the freshest sashimi and rice bowls.

After exploring the market, we made our way to the Nomura Samurai House, a beautifully restored residence that once belonged to a prestigious samurai family. The architecture of the home was a standout—the dark wood interiors, tatami mats, and sliding shoji doors created a sense of calm, while tiny architectural flourishes revealed the household’s wealth and taste. Above the doors, carved transoms displayed intricate patterns and scenes, each unique. One of the most surprising features was a narrow stone staircase leading to the second floor—an unusual and charming detail. The garden, though compact, was immaculately kept, with a koi pond, manicured trees, and raked gravel—each element carefully placed for harmony and balance.

Later in the afternoon, my friend and I decided to head toward a museum our tour guide had researched for him, where they descovered of Noh masks for sale—hand-carved, traditional theatre masks used in one of Japan’s oldest performing arts. After watching him purchase these rare and expensive pieces, we found ourselves unexpectedly drawn into a logistical challenge: figuring out how to ship them safely back to the UK.

With very little English spoken at the nearby Japan Post, and our Japanese being just about passable between the two of us—him speaking, me listening—we spent the next 45 minutes wrestling with forms, packaging, and translation apps. It was a comedy of errors at times, but eventually, we succeeded. Victory never felt so earned.

We returned to the hotel just in time for a surprise dinner arranged for those of us who had previously opted for the ryokan experience. To our delight, we were treated to a full buffet dinner at a nearby restaurant. The food was delicious and plentiful, and to make the evening even better, drinks were included. No one quite knew what we had done to deserve it—but none of us questioned it either.

The eight of us shared stories and laughs over plates of Japanese and Western dishes, raising glasses in what felt like a quiet celebration of our journey so far. After dinner, we made our way back to the hotel, full, happy, and ready for whatever the next day would bring.


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