Day 5: Sulphur Springs and the Shadow of Fuji
This morning, we began our journey toward one of Japan’s most iconic landmarks: Mount Fuji. As we left Tokyo behind, the city seemed to stretch endlessly across the landscape. From the comfort of the bus, we caught glimpses of the strange and unexpected—most memorably, a dinosaur-themed hotel. It was surreal to see towering models of a T-Rex and Brontosaurus looming just beyond the highway, followed moments later by a sweets-themed hotel. Only in Japan.
As the concrete gave way to countryside, we were suddenly gifted our first view of Mount Fuji. Even from nearly 100 miles away, its presence was unmistakable—rising above the horizon like a silent guardian. It peeked out briefly from behind roadside barriers, a fleeting moment made special by the morning’s clear skies. We’d been told Fuji is often shrouded by clouds as the day progresses, so we knew we might be witnessing our best chance to see Japan’s most famous image in full.
The journey continued through smaller towns and more rural scenery. The cherry blossoms, no longer arranged in pristine lines like in Tokyo, now bloomed wildly across the landscape. Their bright pinks and whites lit up hillsides and village corners, drawing the eye wherever they appeared.
Our first stop of the day was Lake Ashi, where we boarded a gondola for a ride up to Owakudani—also known as Hell Valley. On the way, we spotted a few of the lake’s cruise ships, including one designed to look like a pirate ship. As we ascended, the reason for Owakudani’s ominous name became clear. The air grew thick with the pungent scent of sulphur, seeping from vents in the earth. The valley was formed during a volcanic eruption of Mount Hakone around 3,000 years ago, and it still steams and hisses to this day.
The area is also famous for its black eggs, cooked in the hot springs. The mineral-rich water turns the shells a deep black, and legend has it that eating one can add seven years to your life. From the mountaintop, we were rewarded with another beautiful view of Mount Fuji—now much closer—but clouds had begun to creep in, obscuring parts of the summit and dampening our hopes of a perfect photo.
We descended the mountain and returned to the bus, which took us to a nearby town known for its bakery. There, we picked up lunch on the go. I treated myself to a potato pie, churros, a cheese waffle, and a custard-filled pancake-style bread—all delicious and satisfying.
Next came a short cruise across Lake Ashi. By chance, one of the pirate ships sailed alongside us for the journey, adding a whimsical charm to the lake’s serene beauty. From the upper deck, we took in more views of Fuji and the scattered lakeside towns.
In the afternoon, we continued to our hotel near Lake Yamanaka, situated right at the base of Mount Fuji. As the distance between us and the mountain closed, its scale truly became apparent. It’s one thing to see Mount Fuji in photos—but to stand beneath it and feel its presence is something else entirely. The way it rises so dramatically out of the earth is humbling, almost spiritual.
As we reached the lake, I remembered reading about Hirano Beach, a small spot that offers stunning views of the lake with Mount Fuji as the backdrop. I knew I had to go. Although we weren’t stopping there as a group, I arranged for a taxi from the hotel and, using my limited Japanese, asked the driver to wait for a quick photo stop. He understood, and I rushed down to the water’s edge—just in time to catch what may be the "money shot" of the trip: a gleaming lake, a snow-capped Fuji, and a sky painted in pastel tones. Worth every second.
Back at the hotel, I was pleasantly surprised by the room—spacious, stylish, and blending traditional design with modern touches. Dinner was a set menu featuring a mix of salads, soups, fish, and meats, each course beautifully presented.
After dinner, I took some time to unwind and reflect on the day. From dinosaur hotels and sulphur springs to pirate ships and mountain views, today was a perfect blend of the unexpected and the unforgettable. Tomorrow, we continue the journey.
