Day 10: Gardens, Gold Leaf, and Geisha Streets

This morning, we made our way to Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan’s most celebrated landscape gardens and a true gem of Kanazawa. The name Kenrokuen translates to “Garden of the Six Sublimities,” referring to the six essential elements of a perfect garden in Japanese philosophy: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, abundant water, and broad views. Kenrokuen lives up to its name in every way.

We’ve been extremely lucky with timing throughout this trip, and today was no different. The cherry blossoms were in full bloom, their soft pinks and whites gently drifting through the air and carpeting the stone paths. As we explored, we saw glimpses of the garden’s long history—stone walkways now closed off to the public, small water channels winding between moss-covered stones, and a statue of the garden’s original owner, a feudal lord of the Kaga Domain. Even the modern radio tower nearby was constructed in such a way that it blends with the garden’s aesthetic, preserving the harmony of the view.

From there, we enjoyed a short but enjoyable hands-on experience: a gold leaf decorating class. Kanazawa is responsible for producing around 99% of Japan’s gold leaf, so it was a fitting activity for the day. To begin, we masked off patterns on a set of wooden chopsticks using tape, then brushed on adhesive in the uncovered areas. We were given delicate sheets of gold leaf to apply, so thin that even the lightest breath could send them fluttering away. Carefully rolling the chopsticks over the shimmering sheets and brushing down the gaps, we created our own simple but elegant designs. Once completed, we were shown how to care for them and left with a sparkling keepsake from the city.

Our final scheduled activity was a stroll through Higashi Chaya, one of Kanazawa’s most picturesque historic districts. Once a thriving entertainment quarter, the area is home to beautifully preserved geisha teahouses, some of which still operate today. Walking along the narrow streets, with their latticed windows and wooden facades, truly felt like stepping back in time. It was easy to imagine geisha moving quietly through the corridors, preparing for performances or ceremonies, as they would have done centuries ago.

Later in the afternoon, we set off on a quick mission to find a gift for our first guide, before heading to a restaurant she had personally recommended. There, I tried my first Japanese curry, specifically Kanazawa curry—a local variation known for its rich, dark roux and satisfying depth of flavour. Served with breaded pork cutlet and shredded cabbage, it was an incredibly comforting dish, and one I’ll definitely try to recreate at home.

Returning to the hotel that evening, we were greeted by yet another shift in weather. A distant storm lit up the night sky with powerful lightning strikes. I tried to capture a few on camera, managing only a handful of successful shots, but it was still an exciting way to end the day. After the excitement passed, we turned in for the night, ready to begin the next leg of the journey 


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